Tuesday, July 17, 2018

Enjoying Pulled Pork, Szabo's Take

Enjoying Pulled Pork, Szabo's Take

    Pulled Pork, An American Fair Enjoyed all over the United States and is a gateway food into understanding the regional sub-cultures of the States. Though It is generally thought of as either Southern or lower Mississippi River fair it actually is standard all over The United States. Pulled Pork did reach each region at different points in our history, still, this has been so widely accepted to classify it solely in any region I consider disingenuous.  So, there is no absolute consensus on the best way to prepare, cook, or sauce. Rather, there is an exploration of ones soul to embark on in finding one's own perfect Pulled Pork recipe.
    Let us begin the journey with our primal of pork. There are two sub-primal parts typically used in pulled pork. Though, one can smoke or slow bake an entire pig and pull. These parts are the picnic and butt of the pig. Important to note for those not familiar with swine that the butt is actually the top part of the shoulder on a pig. Many will just take the whole primal that includes both the butt and shoulder to smoke or slow bake. There are reasons and debates on which of the sub-primal pieces to use. However, I will explain that these perspectives are influenced by three separate cooking methods and very practically by the cook time and value. The butt sub-primal alone tends to be more expensive per pound than the shoulder alone but this value does not dictate the quality of your pull pork. Rather, this price difference equates to time and method. Time is money.
   
   
    The cheaper picnic cut or the whole primal have two solid methods in which to cook. Either by smoking or slow baking one can reach pulled pork nirvana. The time for cooking a picnic will be significantly longer. This is not for taste but for quality of pull. The lower end of the shoulder is used for the stability of the animal. Though, it is not nearly as lean as the rear ham it is leaner than the butt. This of difference in marbling is what neccesitates a slower cooking method along with a slightly lower bake temperature. 
    The higher priced Boston Butt cut is the least used set of pig leg muscles. The front of four legged mammals are used mainly for stabilization. On the pig this work is done primarily on the lower picnic half. This allows the butt to become more ingrained with fat. Which, in turn, makes the butt a very good choice for many families. This is for good reason. The Boston butt will reach optimal pull-ability sooner as that marble fat breaks down between the protein faster. This also adds a third option for one's cooking method. A slow cooker will make terrific pulled pork from the butt and is the fastest method in which to do so.
   Can one slow cook a picnic? Sure but it will be a few hours longer and makes the least satisfying version. This is my opinion from my experience trying all these methods and parts. I feel strongly enough to not have included it in the picnic procedures above. Take that as you may.


Evaluating Preparation Technique

    There are few techniques have seen and used for prepping one pork shoulder for pulled pork. There undoubtedly several other techniques used by smoke masters and chefs alike. Many of these personal techniques, whether its a special rub or certain series of steps are tricks of the trade. One must experiment through trial and error when matching a soul to a dish like pulled pork. So, go ahead and play but I'll be straight forward. There is no need for any special preparation. There are a couple of ways many would go about it that work just fine.
     One such method that works well is to wrap your primal in a cheese cloth or a couple layers of paper towel then to pour a healthy amount of vinegar over the pork. Then let it marinate a few hours (2-3) You will need vinegar to make a good pulled pork. I use ordinary white vinegar myself but it is not uncommon to use apple cider vinegar. This is really to one's personal taste and certainly will be influenced regionally. 
     Another such method that can be done alone or in conjunction with the vinegar bath is rub the pork down with a healthy amount of course grained salt. I prefer sea salt the best. This does save time later in the process as does the vinegar bath. 
     I have found through experience that neither of these are necessary in preparation. I have found salting and adding vinegar to your pork shoulder after its been pulled is the best way to get the desired additions to flavor. That might not be yours pulled pork is very personal. So cook your conscience. I have also found the bone in skin on shoulder  is the best way to make pulled pork. Quite honestly I have never met another professional that would disagree with that except in one case. That is breaking down a butt in a slow cooker. I would still keep the bone but remove the skin. Chances are the skin will already be removed from the butt another factor in the price differential.


Cooking Times per Method

    For picnic in the oven:

1.Preheat your oven to 225 degrees
2.Place your picnic skin up on baking sheet or in baking pan.
3.Lower oven to 200 degrees
4.Cook for a minimum of 12 hours. I prefer to leave it overnight for about 18 hours (6pm until noon next day)
5. Remove pull skin off and save for crackling. It will be ready to eat. The fat will be 95% rendered and bones will pull right off clean.
6. Add Meat to a tray and begin Shredding (see my method in next section)
7. Add 1/8 cup of choice vinegar (per picnic) and salt to taste. (I prefer ordinary white vinegar)
8. Sauce meat (optional) . See Sauce section for different ideas.

    For smoked picnic:

1. Preheat your smoker 175 degrees
2. Add your desired wood or chips determined by the type of smoker you use.
3. Place your picnic skin up on rack or hang it.
4. Smoke for 24 hours adding wood or chips ever 8 hours. So 2 times beginning with when putting your meat in. 
4a. Maintain 155 degrees during the 24 hour period
repeat steps 5-8 above

    For Boston Butt in oven:

1. Preheat oven to 225 degrees
2. Place Butt fat cap up in pan or baking sheet.
3. Lower to 200 degrees
4. Cook for a minimum of 6 hours. I suggest 8 to 12 hours.
5. Remove bone. Fat will be mostly rendered bone will pull clean after 8-12 hours
6. Add meat to tray and begin to Shred. (see method in next section)
7. Add 1/8 cup of choice vinegar (per butt) salt to taste.
8. Sauce meat (optional)

    For Boston Butt Smoked:

(see Smoked Picnic above)

Note:  Necessary smoking time is cut in half  to 12 hours but I usually leave it for 16 hours.
Also, add your second group of wood or chips after 6 hours.

Repeat steps 5-8 as above

    For Boston Butt in slow cooker:

1. Place Butt fat cap up in slow cooker. 
2. Add 1/8 cup of choice vinegar and salt generously.
3. Add sauce of choice ( options in next section) or stock, or root beer 1/4 of the way up the primal. We will examine all these method in sauce section.
4. Put slow cooker on high and let cook for 4-6 hours. or put on high for 1 hour then on low then let cook 6 hours or as long as you need if you put it on before work. It will remain moist.
5. If using sauce remove bone (you can use boneless) and shred in slow cooker. If using stock or root beer strain then shred in tray and add sauce.

Shredding your Pork

    It is best to shred immediately ,however, you pork will be extremely hot and will burn you. I find putting on a pair of cloth gloves on then a second layer of sanitary latex gloves on is best. I use two serving forks to pull the meat apart but in this method you will also pull some sections by hand. This is why the protective gloves are necessary. It is not necessary to make it entirely stringy this is a matter of your personal desire for the texture.
   There are shredding tools available that are worth purchasing if you cater pulled pork or make it rather often. These are worn over your glove layers. They resemble a miniature version of Marvel Comics super hero Wolverine's titanium claws. Don't let Dad have too much fun! When desired texture is reached you will add your vinegar and salt. Then if you, as most do, sauce the pork proceed to that step.








The Regional Culture of  Saucing  Pulled Pork

    As I wrote of at the beginning of this article, every major region has a preferred  method of saucing and  garnishing pulled pork. Also, there are several deviations on how to serve pulled pork. Sometimes it may stand alone and plated as your meat portion. Most often in it will be served as a sandwich. There are also a variety of ways regionals will serve the sandwich. 
    As far as, I have concluded our nations' saucing differences have spawned from two major traditions. Those are from the Carolinas and Kansas City Traditions. It is important to not that Texas also has a distinct sauce tradition that is close enough to the Kansas City tradition, in my opinion, to be classified as the first sub-sauce culture derived from Kansas City. The Texas take is a smokier version of the sweet tomato based K.C sauce. In addition Memphis has a distinct sauce as well I feel draws close enough to the Carolina tradition to be it's first sub-sauce because of it's prominent draw of the vinegar taste. I'm including A K.C and Carolina recipe respectively for you to try. 
    The Kansas City sauce is a thick sweet tomato based sauce that is cooked over the stove using tomato sauce, ketchup, molasses, onion with other ingredients. Here is a great recipe I've enjoyed.


    The Carolina sauce is not as thick and relies more on a tart flavored bite derived from vinegar and mustard being the base. Carolina Gold does use tomato paste, sauce or ketchup but tomato is an accompanying ingredient not the base. Here is a great Carolina Gold recipe.


    I will be delving into some of the other sauces on this blog independently in future write ups. I hope that anyone who has a question, comment,  concern or review of any part of this article will leave a comment below and join us for future articles. Thanks.

    Szabo's Preferred Method

   In doing all of the above methods over the years I of course have a favorite. I like to do two Pork Picnics in the oven. Using the baking method listed, I make it a 24 hour cook time. KI will not dry out because the juices are sealed in and it if very easy to pull. Also two god sized picnics (6-7 lbs each) will fill one large tray. After pulling the bones and enjoying a snack on the crispy skin, I shred using serving forks. I like to then add my vinegar and a healthy amount of salt. 
    Now, I don't always sauce. The pulled pork is delicious with out it as well but when I do I like using a Carolina Gold sauce. I'm not sharing my secret sauce today but perhaps with enough requests I  just may. I like to serve it with a side of sweet jersey corn, coleslaw, either on a roll or with a piece of corn bread. You guessed it made with Jersey sweet corn.

   Other serving Methods

  Like we have discussed every region has it's different take on pulled pork. I've seen quite a few but commonly K.C sauced pulled pork on a roll might have a mild coleslaw and/or pickle topped on the sandwich which are delicious accompanying flavors to this sandwich. I have also seen sandwiches without sauce served with finely chopped sweet onions and relish. On occasion you may find a pulled pork sandwich with a mild cheese like Swiss on top. Swiss is certainly a perfect cheese if making a pulled pork sandwich sauced with Carolina Gold. That is a personal taste I have learned not something I've ever heard to be traditional.
   Commonly, pulled pork plated as the protein will be served with corn bread, and a salad (either pickled or hearty or both) When choosing a salad remember the flavors in the pulled pork style you have chosen. If you went a sweeter or smokier route (Kansas City/Texas) adding a pickled salad such as coleslaw, kraut, or cucumber is very complimentary. If rather you went with a tartier version.(Carolina/Memphis) I would suggest using sweeter or mellower sides such as beet salad, Corn on the cob, or potato salad. This attention to your flavors on the plate will create a symphony on everyones plate. 
   These serving methods are simply suggestions. As I wrote earlier, cook your conscience. Do not be afraid to experiment with this dish. Pulled pork is a pure American culinary expression. One dish that has touched every state and region in it's own way. The simplicity and accessibility has found this dish being realized in the majority of kitchens and yards of our neighbors. Though, a  lengthy process in regards to cook time pulled pork proves to be largely hands off. This makes the meal perfect for holiday weekends with friends and family. Also, this all American gourmet has provided many bonding experiences from parent to child. As it is an all day event and personal with recipes handed down for generations, take to time to share the experience with a loved one!  



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